UMOJA

Can sneakers be ethical? We're inclined to say they can, and as proof, we'd point to Umòja — "unite" in Swahili. Founded by Dieuveil Ngoubou and Lancine Koulibaly in Paris in 2017, the label was born of two pointed observations: the first, that a number of West African countries are under-recognized creative forces, and that their traditional methods and craftsmanship were in the course of disappearing. They also noticed that the fashion industry was in the habit of turning a blind eye to innovative, natural materials, using only a limited choice of textiles and creating unnecessarily-long production chains, multiplying costs and destroying traceability and transparency. Working hand in hand with artisan co-ops based in Mali, Côte d'Ivoire, and Burkina Faso, the two creators also work with a workshop in Portugal for the cutting and assembly of the shoes. And far from being content to simply offer eco-friendly kicks, the label is also committed to boosting its partners' social initiatives, with an eye to promoting fair payment of artisans and providing valuable exposure. From mineral dyes to fabrics made of biodegradable materials derived from tree-bark to replace animal leather, these two creatives have checked all the boxes, and then some, on sneakers that are as cool as they are conscious. Winners of the "100 jours pour entreprendre" competition, the duo is supported by several structures promoting entrepreneurship and they regularly participate in Green fashion events.